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Cycling to Carigara

August 23, 2013 – 2:47 pm
Hotel Room in Carigara Beach Resort

It has been a long while since I’ve broken out the NEO. I guess just hanging out in Tacloban didn’t inspire any journal-keeping. I did write when I first got there and was busy. I wrote about my last few days on the road before arriving there. And I wrote about my various errands, such as getting my visa extension and buying some things for …

Devoured by Mosquitoes at the Fire Station

June 5, 2013 – 1:20 pm
Firefighters - My Hosts for the Night

I had been told that after Catbalogan, the road became very hilly and difficult with long, hard climbs. That turned out to be true to a certain extent. The most difficult climb by far was the first one right out of the city. This is a common pattern. There might be a gentle grade on the roads as they climbed hills and mountains. But immediately …

A Wonderful Night in Viriato

May 20, 2013 – 12:07 pm
IMG_3883

I was cycling at a pretty good pace (good for me, that is), and some rough calculations told me that I could make it to Calbayog before dark if I wanted to. However, the land had other ideas about that and it suddenly became much hillier and I was reduced to my usual stately crawl up long steep slopes. At that pace, reaching Calbyog seemed …

Day Three and Matnog’s Still-Hidden Charms

May 19, 2013 – 11:52 am
Jumping from Bridges in Matnog

The next day, my last day in Matnog, was an odd sort of day. I spent the morning writing in my journal and drinking coffee and hanging out at the resort. This was not quite as relaxing and enjoyable as it sounds as the skin on my legs around my knees was so itchy and sore that I wanted to scream at times. Plus, I …

“Where’s my spoon and water bottle?” Robbed in Matnog

May 19, 2013 – 11:49 am
Young Boys in Matnog

Charmless Matnog was not, however, finished with me, and I rode my bike back to my improvised campsite in the Richwell Beach Resort walled compound to find that I had been robbed. True, the robbers had not gotten away with much, but it was still quite annoying. They had taken a few things that I’d left out on the table with my campstove. They took …

“Pass the Brownies and Pepsi” – Island Hopping in Matnog

May 19, 2013 – 11:45 am
Subic Beach Near Matnog

Once I’d paid all my fees, I left the tourism office and followed the Filipino woman and a boatman out into the street. She walked up to a big white van that was crammed with people. I thought I was expected to get inside the van, but I knew the boat couldn’t be far and I preferred to walk to the water’s edge. The boatman …

The “Foreigner Price” in Matnog

May 18, 2013 – 11:39 am
Bangka for Island-Hopping in Matnog

I woke up full intending to make the best of the day. Matnog was not going to defeat me. I was going to be flexible and I was going to go with the flow. I was not going to impose my Western ideas of logic and common sense. I would simply go to the tourism office for 7 o’clock and then let what happens happen. …

The Hunt for Food in Matnog Continues

May 17, 2013 – 11:34 am
Children in Matnog

My first night in Matnog at the Richwell Beach Reort did little to ease my pain. There was a restaurant at the Resort and I had been assured by everyone that I could order what I wanted. But when I tried to do that, I found it impossible to fight my way through the vagueness once more. Our conversation (if you can call it that) …