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Philippines 2013

Cycling Catanduanes 1 – “Are you sure?”

The manager of the hotel in Virac raised her eyebrows at me when I told her of my plans to ride my bicycle to Pandan – the town at the northern tip of Catanduanes. “Are ...

Cycling Catanduanes 2 – A Night in Salvacion

The real adventure began at the end of my first day when I stopped at the little barangay of Salvacion and met Grandpa and his sea of granddaughters. As I rode along, I pondered just ...

Cycling Catanduanes 3 – Videoke Nightmare in Caramoran

In the morning, Grandpa took me on a tour of Salvacion before I left. He knew everyone in the barangay, of course, and he introduced me to everyone, including his five brothers. Five brothers and ...

Cycling Catanduanes 4 – Journey to San Vicente

I had asked lots of people over the previous couple of days about the road going from Pandan and back to Virac along the east coast. From these people I got a variety of answers ...

Cycling Catanduanes 5 – The Barangay Captain of San Vicente

San Vicente did not, as I suspected, have any kind of hotel or pension or inn or guest house or lodging. In that situation, I figured I would be sleeping in my tent and I ...

Cycling Catanduanes 6 – Trying to Say “Bagamanoc”

The following day was by far the hardest day of the circuit around Catanduanes – far harder than my ride from Pandan to San Vicente. It didn’t start out that terribly hard. I rode through ...

Cycling Catanduanes 7 – Good Cop/Bad Cop in Viga

I had been assured by many, many people that once I reached Bagamanoc my life of crashing and banging over rough and rocky roads would be over. It would be cement paving all the way ...

Cycling Catanduanes 8 – My Gigmoto Host Domingo Tatel

I did make it to Gigmoto and though I didn’t find the perfect lodging I was looking for – a nice bungalow on the beach with its own bathroom and water supply – I found ...

Cycling Catanduanes 9 – Hanging Out at Pururan Surf Beach

My last night in Gigmoto passed pleasantly enough. Domingo and his cousin ate their meal beside me on the dining room table and we all watched TV afterward. They were both quite amused by the ...

Cycling Catanduanes 10 – Epilogue and Return to Virac

I could have stayed at Pururan for another day quite easily, but there didn’t seem to be much point. There was nothing to do there if you weren’t going to surf. And though it was ...

From Catanduanes back to Legazpi

Sunday April 28, 2013 Villa Toledo Hotel, Virac, Catanduanes I got back to Virac perhaps a bit quicker than I would have liked. I was interested in staying in a couple of places an extra ...

Eruption of the Mayon Volcano in Legazpi

Eruption of the Mayon Volcano in Legazpi Monday May 13, 2013 Bulusan Volcano Natural Park, Sorsogon, Philippines It took an effort to load up my bike and cycle away from the comforts of the hostel ...

Bus and Truck Madness – Cycling from Legazpi to Sorsogon City

Bus and Truck Madness - Cycling from Legazpi to Sorsogon City Speaking of a menacing aspect, I was saying that I eventually got on my bicycle and rode the 60 or 70 kilometers to the ...

Coast Road Paradise – Cycling from Sorsogon to Bulusan

I’m very happy to report that my next day of cycling – tough as it was, and it was very tough – was far more pleasant than my first. It was different because I quickly ...

Jungle Night Noises – Camping at Bulusan Volcano Natural Park

It turned out that the camping area was more of a myth than reality. It wasn’t a camping area as such. They just allowed people to put up their tent on a small grassy patch ...

The Road to Matnog – Leaving Bulusan Volcano Natural Park

The access road didn’t seem quite as steep going down as it did going up. Perhaps I had just been too tired at the end of the day when I arrived to handle it. It ...

Matnog – Trying to Uncover Matnog’s Charm

As much as I enjoyed the ride to Matnog, I have to say that it took some time and effort to uncover Matnog’s charm – if, in fact, I ever did. This was not an ...

Spewing Out Words – The Matnog Tourist Information Office

Once fortified with food (I struggled through my fish head as best I could), I stopped by the tourist information office. I could either catch a ferry across to Samar right away or the next ...

The Hunt for Food in Matnog Continues

My first night in Matnog at the Richwell Beach Reort did little to ease my pain. There was a restaurant at the Resort and I had been assured by everyone that I could order what ...

The “Foreigner Price” in Matnog

I woke up full intending to make the best of the day. Matnog was not going to defeat me. I was going to be flexible and I was going to go with the flow. I ...

“Pass the Brownies and Pepsi” – Island Hopping in Matnog

Once I’d paid all my fees, I left the tourism office and followed the Filipino woman and a boatman out into the street. She walked up to a big white van that was crammed with ...

“Where’s my spoon and water bottle?” Robbed in Matnog

Charmless Matnog was not, however, finished with me, and I rode my bike back to my improvised campsite in the Richwell Beach Resort walled compound to find that I had been robbed. True, the robbers ...

Day Three and Matnog’s Still-Hidden Charms

The next day, my last day in Matnog, was an odd sort of day. I spent the morning writing in my journal and drinking coffee and hanging out at the resort. This was not quite ...

Enjoying the Breeze – Ferry Ride from Matnog to Allen

The trip across to the port town of Allen on Samar went by quickly and pleasantly – at least once we got moving. The loading had taken many hours and we left hours after the ...

A Wonderful Night in Viriato

I was cycling at a pretty good pace (good for me, that is), and some rough calculations told me that I could make it to Calbayog before dark if I wanted to. However, the land ...

Morning in Viriato

I knew I had only a short distance to cycle the next day – it was about 45 kilometers to Calbayog – and I was in no hurry to get out of bed and get ...

A Bit of Chaos in Calbayog

The road from Viriato to Calbayog was just as beautiful as that from Allen to Viriato had been. There were some long and hard climbs, but I barely noticed them I was so wrapped up ...

Traffic on the Road to Tacloban

Saturday May 25, 2013 8:37 a.m. Tacloban, Leyte Several days have passed since I last wrote in my journal and I am now in the large city of Tacloban, the capital city of the island ...

Catbalogan and Wacky’s Pension House

My day of riding from Calbayog to Catbalogan was only a short time ago, but so much has happened that I have to close my eyes and think carefully to bring it back. It was ...

Devoured by Mosquitoes at the Fire Station

I had been told that after Catbalogan, the road became very hilly and difficult with long, hard climbs. That turned out to be true to a certain extent. The most difficult climb by far was ...

Tourist Visa Extension Fun in Tacloban

I had some bread and coffee with the firefighters in the morning and I was back on the road. It was a tough day for me. I didn’t have to cover a huge amount of ...

“I Shall Return” Monument in Palo

This will likely be my last day in Tacloban. I will do a bit of shopping and organizing and planning and then I’ll be back on the road tomorrow morning. Yesterday, Sunday, was a pretty ...

Buying Beer, Ice, and Bike Gear in Tacloban

I managed to track down more beer and ice yesterday. I doubled down on the beer this time, and as a result I’m a little bit out of it this morning. I slept quite a ...

Reality TV in Tacloban

A few days have passed since my last entry, and I haven’t done anything to write about. I’m still in Tacloban. I should have left days ago, but a very bad weather system passed through ...

Organizing and Shopping for Bike Gear

Another day in Tacloban gets underway with a good cup of coffee at Bo’s Coffee. This is the very first place I stopped at when I arrived in Tacloban, and I’ve come back many times ...

Cycling to Carigara

It has been a long while since I've broken out the NEO. I guess just hanging out in Tacloban didn't inspire any journal-keeping. I did write when I first got there and was busy. I ...

Battles with Ants and Mosquitoes

The late afternoon, evening, and night were times of third world battles and I think I came out on the losing side most of the time. For one thing, this room is infested with ants, ...