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Articles by Doug Nienhuis

I am a Canadian, and I am currently traveling through Asia with a touring bicycle. These are stories and pictures from my trip.

Korea 010 – Kyongju & Pusan

January 15, 1995 – 4:52 pm
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The next day, I went to Kyongju by bus. The Koreans are very proud of the ancient city of Kyongju and the past glory it represents. Kyongju, I was told by a Korean man on the bus, was home to twenty five National Treasures, thirty five Treasures, and over sixty Historical Sites and Natural Monuments. It was, he said without a trace of humour, a …

Korea 009 – Train to Taegu

January 13, 1995 – 4:51 pm
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I finally reached the train station only to find another vast expanse of wide roads, elevated access ramps and thousands of vehicles blocking my path. There was no way to get across except for once more to go underground. By now I had discovered a technique. Before going down the first set of steps, I visualized a straight line from me to the train station …

Korea 008 – Going South

January 11, 1995 – 4:50 pm
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GOING SOUTH
My second morning, after another wet and frustrating encounter with the shower from which I emerged rather dirtier than when I had entered, I packed my belongings and then slipped my arms through the heavy shoulder straps of my backpack. I was leaving on a trip to see the other cities of Korea. Walking with my pack on in that small room proved difficult, …

Korea 007 – The Bathhouse

January 9, 1995 – 4:49 pm
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THE BATHHOUSE
When I woke up the next morning, my room was still pitch black and I was chilled to the core. I was disoriented at first but slowly realized where I was. I lay there a while listening to the sounds outside my room, the sounds of Korea and of the Inn Dae Won waking up.
I climbed to my knees and then to my feet, …

Korea 006 – Ajimahs and Salarymen

January 8, 1995 – 4:47 pm
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AJIMAHS AND SALARYMEN
Sleep didn’t come easily that night, tired as I was. I thought about Robert and Charles and Ajimahs and Salarymen. At the time of course I didn’t realize it fully, but I had had a glimpse into one of the key defining characteristics of Korean society: its division into distinct categories. It isn’t a perfect division by any means but it was the …

Korea 005 – Charles and Coffee

January 7, 1995 – 4:46 pm
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My reverie was interrupted suddenly by the arrival of Charles from London, England. He was about 38 years old and to my eyes one step away from a hospital bed. He was gaunt, red eyed and a sickly yellow-white in complexion. The way he moved, he seemed split between manic energy levels and total exhaustion. Dazed almost. I came to know it well as the …

Korea 004 – Salarymen at the Hof

January 6, 1995 – 4:45 pm
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After our meal of bi-bim-bap, Robert and I began to walk back to the Inn Dae Won. At the first corner we encountered more salarymen. Five of them, obviously very drunk, were coming towards us and taking up the entire width of the alley. They had their arms about each other and were weaving down the alley shouting and laughing. Their identical rather ill-fitting dark …

Korea 003 – The Mad Biker

January 4, 1995 – 4:43 pm
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THE MAD BIKER
I’m glad Robert was the first person I met on that cold miserable night. In some ways he was so weird he made the place I was staying and the situation I found myself in appear normal. He stood about six four, the top three inches of that, thick black curly hair. I met him in the dark hall, his huge white teeth …