From Catanduanes back to Legazpi

Sunday April 28, 2013 Villa Toledo Hotel, Virac, Catanduanes I got back to Virac perhaps a bit quicker than I would have liked. I was interested in staying in a couple of places an extra night – places like San Vicente. However, I was a bit worried about my luggage in Legazpi. I had been gone longer than I’d anticipated, and I was worried that they would ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 10 – Epilogue and Return to Virac

I could have stayed at Pururan for another day quite easily, but there didn’t seem to be much point. There was nothing to do there if you weren’t going to surf. And though it was beautiful, it was no more beautiful than other places I’d been on Catanduanes and it was far less interesting. Add to that the higher expenses of staying there and how ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 9 – Hanging Out at Pururan Surf Beach

My last night in Gigmoto passed pleasantly enough. Domingo and his cousin ate their meal beside me on the dining room table and we all watched TV afterward. They were both quite amused by the Filipino sitcom playing. I guess it would be unfair to criticize a sitcom, but it was extremely corny and over-acted. I also noted that nearly every single member of the ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 8 – My Gigmoto Host Domingo Tatel

I did make it to Gigmoto and though I didn’t find the perfect lodging I was looking for – a nice bungalow on the beach with its own bathroom and water supply – I found something that in its way might be a lot better. It was certainly a lot more interesting – a room in a private home. The owner of the house was Domingo ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 7 – Good Cop/Bad Cop in Viga

I had been assured by many, many people that once I reached Bagamanoc my life of crashing and banging over rough and rocky roads would be over. It would be cement paving all the way from there to Virac, I was told. I should have known better than to trust any of these informants. One road from Bagmananoc to Virac may indeed have been paved. ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 6 – Trying to Say “Bagamanoc”

The following day was by far the hardest day of the circuit around Catanduanes – far harder than my ride from Pandan to San Vicente. It didn’t start out that terribly hard. I rode through some pleasant countryside and villages, occasionally climbing up some steep hills and bouncing and crashing down the other side. My goal for the day was the barangay of Bagmananoc – ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 5 – The Barangay Captain of San Vicente

San Vicente did not, as I suspected, have any kind of hotel or pension or inn or guest house or lodging. In that situation, I figured I would be sleeping in my tent and I understood from many conversations I’d had that I should present myself to the barangay captain to obtain his permission and protection. I rode around San Vicente, and people actually made ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 4 – Journey to San Vicente

I had asked lots of people over the previous couple of days about the road going from Pandan and back to Virac along the east coast. From these people I got a variety of answers. Most said variants on the “too far” and “impossible” line. Others said that the entire road was under construction just like the road from Virac to Pandan. Others said that ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 3 – Videoke Nightmare in Caramoran

In the morning, Grandpa took me on a tour of Salvacion before I left. He knew everyone in the barangay, of course, and he introduced me to everyone, including his five brothers. Five brothers and no sisters at all. And then DNA evened up the affair quite a bit by providing him with an entire sea of granddaughters. The five brothers were all farmers and ...

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Cycling Catanduanes 2 – A Night in Salvacion

The real adventure began at the end of my first day when I stopped at the little barangay of Salvacion and met Grandpa and his sea of granddaughters. As I rode along, I pondered just where I was going to spend the night. I was prepared to spend the night in my tent, but I wasn’t fully organized for that. I did not have food ...

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